Days 12-13/Weekend Experiences

Saturday was my day to go shopping at the Central Market with Nuru. We took the dalla-dalla down - a 15 seater van that carries, on average, 23 people - for 400 tsh (less than 40 cents Canadian). It is a popular mode of transportation. The driver fights his way through the traffic and his money-collector typically hangs out the window looking for the next customer. There are many dalla-dallas travelling up and down the road throughout the day, each competing for rides. Luckily I got squished against a window so I could get some fresh air - and see the passing scenery.
Once downtown, Nuru led me through the market and helped get some deals for me with her excellent bargaining skills. We then walked to the Chinese restaurant along the shore of Lake Victoria to enjoy an early dinner - and catch the sunset.
While we were eating we noticed that the park along the shore was littered with at least 8 different wedding parties. It was total chaos trying to maneuver down the street afterwards, with all their vans and buses lined up waiting for the photo shoots to end.
Below are a few pictures of the sunset, a typical tilapia fish and chips dinner, and a view of the big mall being built.

I told Nuru she could put me on a dalla-dalla to return to the lodge on my own, so she could head home from downtown. She, however, was very relieved to find Elizabeth (a teacher and fellow Rotarian) returning home on the same dalla-dalla as myself. Elizabeth ensured I got a seat (squished at the back of the bus again) and was able to get off at the correct stop. (Ironic wasn't it that I, a white person, was at the back of a bus of Africans? - Opposite to history in the US.) One man kept trying to get me to give him my money but I just told him that I wanted his money. I commented that the fact I was riding a dalla-dalla showed I didn't have money - or I'd be in a car. There was much joking around because I couldn't follow what was being said - but Elizabeth didn't look worried, so I was okay with it.
When we got off the bus, I lead the way to the Lodge - to prove to Elizabeth I knew my way.  Elizabeth and I then made plans for me to go to her house for dinner on Wednesday - so her children could meet me. It is a big deal to have a mzungu visit. Elizabeth promised to show me how to wear the traditional skirt.
On Sunday I went with Delphine to her church. I didn't think it would be proper to take pictures of the service and I completely forgot to take pictures of Delphine's adorable children - Lillian (2) and David(5). I was surprised to see a monkey cross the road as we drove out to her house. She said the monkeys raided the bananas she tried to grow and would often come by her house.
As for the service itself, I don't think I could do it justice by writing about my experiences there. (Ask me later, if you're interested.) It was Pentecostal - African-style and so completely different from any Roman Catholic or Protestant ceremony I had ever attended. There was singing, dancing, and role-playing. We arrived late, but were there for over 2 hours. I was called up to the front at the end to speak to the congregation (with Delphine translating) and then the pastor requested I meet with him afterwards in his office. All I can say is, I am almost 100% certain he and his congregation will by praying for me - and for Canada. Homosexual relationships are illegal in Tanzania and he was quite upset to hear that not only are they legal in Canada, but couples can marry in churches and we even have large parades to celebrate being gay. I told the pastor it didn't bother me who a person loves, and it was not up to me to judge them. I don't think he was happy with that response. He was hoping I would tell him it was all a horrible rumour and there was no truth to our acceptance of the gay culture at all.  Delphine was convinced her pastor had prophesized about my coming to their church, thereby solidifying her beliefs even more. I remain sceptical. Christianity in Tanzania is mixed with traditional beliefs - such as demon spirits, etc. They are very devout.
I was invited by Delphine to then enjoy a fish dinner - similar to the one above. I have to admit - I prefer tilapia as a filet, without the eyes and mouth.

Day 11 - Three Schools in One Day!

Although I was up early today, there was no running water in my room to start getting ready. I received a bucket of hot water at 6:30 am and was able to get a trickle from the tap to partially fill another bucket so I could make warm water. I was at my table by 7:10 for breakfast, which was when Timothy was scheduled to pick me up. I managed to wolf down a few items before running out to meet him. 
Timothy took me to three schools today, with the last two being further afield. There was a definite contrast between them and Igoma from yesterday. I did not 'teach' much today and only gave out a few stickers since I barely stayed in each class. 
At one of the schools, a young boy was sitting on the staff room floor with another boy. A number of teachers talked with him, including Timothy. Apparently the boy was accused of stealing 200 tsh (less than $0.12 Canadian) from his father, who then tied his hands together and dragged him down the road (remember, it is VERY bumpy) on the back of his motorcycle. The staff wanted to have the boy brought to the police to report the father's actions. Hopefully this won't lead to further punishments.  Now, a bit about each school: Shamaliwa Primary School is built near a church, where there have been daily services all week - outdoors, by the sound of it. The classroom windows are not able to close so the teachers have had to teach above the loud music. A number of students have also missed school - due to the services. With 2624 students, even having 4 different grades coming at different times of the day (in shifts), many students still do not have desks. There are only 10 classrooms and 50 teachers (5 men/45 women). The 647 Level 1 students are separated into 3 groups, and then into 2 shifts, so each class would still have over 100 students. Two teachers live in small accommodations behind the school - not because they love their job so much, but because each school hires a night watchman - and the teachers prefer to live somewhere that provides additional security. (The second picture below I took with a flash because it was quite dark inside.)

The second school on the tour was Bukaga Primary School. It only has 1491 student/25 teachers/7 classrooms. At least 3 grades come in shifts to allow students to fit in the rooms. There are 109 kindergarten students. 

Above you can see what happens when the classes are full of students - the teachers' desks remain outside. Seeing teachers buried behind endless piles of books was a common sight. The last school was Kanindo Primary School - a bit more rural. The rocks in the background make for some very interesting scenery. This school has 1287 students/16 teachers/7 classrooms. Three grades come in shifts, but some classes still don't have enough desks. Many of the students in Level 7 were full of questions for Timothy - to prepare for their final exams, which determines whether or not they will enter secondary school. They, sadly, did not have as much world knowledge as the previous schools. 

On the way back to the lodge, I thought I'd take a picture of a common traffic problem. 

On a totally unrelated topic, I've included pictures of plants growing in the garden. Do they look familiar?

 

The above picture is a Hadada Ibis (hopefully I named it correctly), a large bird with a very loud annoying call - at dusk and dawn.

This bird above, I have yet to identify. Tim??? Below is a Sunbird, I think, but I can't pinpoint exactly what kind.

I was invited to Sunday dinner at a Rotary member's house - because her children wanted to meet a 'mzungu' (white person). I, unfortunately, already made plans to meet Delphine's pastor - after the 2 hour church service, apparently. (I'm grateful it's not 4 hours, which is typical.)
Moses outlined my schedule for the next week. We both can hardly believe that I am about half-way through my visit already. I have tomorrow 'off' so Nuru will take me into the city centre to explore and possibly shop. We're going to take the daladala to town - that will be an experience in itself! (Small vans packed with people.) Stay tuned for some interesting posts - not school related. 

Day 10: Igoma Primary School

All I can say is . . . Wow! Visiting Igoma Primary School with 2528 students/43 teachers/16 classrooms was a real treat. Timothy Lugejuna, now the Chairman of ETT Board of Directors, was the principal of this school for 10 years. I still have to get the details of his story, but I do know he was responsible for making some very big changes and improving this school immensely. Timothy drove me to the school at 7:30 am so we could witness their bi-weekly assembly to begin their day. The school's buildings are shaped in a large horseshoe, with a giant courtyard in the middle. It is here that the students assemble in rows. A prefect (older student) leads the entire student body in opening exercises, singing the national anthem,

and helps organize their dismissal. Today a particular class had the honour of coming in with drums to then perform and lead the student body in another song. With so many choreographed bodies, it reminded me of the opening ceremonies to the Olympics. The students sing their national anthem with such pride and volume - it really puts many of the classes I've been in to shame and I always sing our anthem. We have a great country - why aren't we as patriotic?

Below is a picture of past and present principals: Timothy Lugejuna and Juliana Madaha.  I spent almost 6 hours at this school, visiting many of the classes and 'teaching' when I could - comparing Canada to Tanzania, teaching some math tricks, and teaching a primary song. Talk about cute when the kindergarten students repeat everything I say - including me saying "Repeat after me". This school has a special education class with two teachers, a physical education teacher, teacher washrooms nearby, a number of small staff rooms for teachers of the same Level(grade) to work together, electricity, a small store, and a photocopier that (although busted today) seems to be used only when the principal deems it necessary and unlocks the small package of paper from her filing cabinet. Can you imagine?! There is also a class for 'delayed entry' students - those who started school later than the suggested kindergarten age of 6. Students are required by law to go to school, but if they began late - this class allows them to work at a lower level than their peers. There is a range of ages from 9 to 13.  
Below is an incomplete chart of the school's population - pupils/teachers.

By the way, the charts and schedules are all hand-written. It is unbelievable the penmanship of the people - adults and students. All work is very organized and precise. The math facts are memorized at a very young age - no calculators are used. 

While I was visiting classes, if students asked questions, I put a small Canada sticker on their hand. This became a very big deal, with students trying to switch seats so I might take a second question from the same student. Some students got stickers because I saw them still trying to work while others were being silly. Any students who showed leadership also earned a sticker. It was a lot of fun. 

Day 9 - Nyerere Primary School

This morning Moses hired two motorcycle drivers to bring us to Nyerere Primary School. We just missed their early morning routines, where the students clean the schoolyard. This school has 690 students/25 teachers/6 classrooms - and the principal has a very small cubicle in the back of a classroom. Only Levels 1 and 2 come in shifts, due to their large numbers and limited space. The kindergarten class is held outside with the students sitting on a tarp and the teacher using a small blackboard propped against a tree.

I was informed that under the principal, is the assistant head teacher, and then the person responsible for 'academics' - making sure the teachers complete their daily lesson plans and follow the curriculum. Teachers must also sign in at the principal's office each morning and sign out - to keep track of their hours and attendance. The staff were amazed that I, as a teacher, did not have to show my principal my dayplan everyday. 
After visiting a number of classes, the school put on a special performance for me. They set up a table (with tablecloth and flowers) under a large tree with two chairs - one for the principal, and one for me. The teachers sat behind us, and the students sat in front - leaving a space for the presenters. I was then entertained with a very loud and patriotic singing of the national anthem, poetry reading, singing, dancing and even some 'rap' - although it goes by a different name here. Everyone got quite a chuckle over some of the very enthusiastic hip shaking of some students during the dance segments. 

 

Above is a picture of my 'favourite'(I know I shouldn't pick favourites!) student (in blue). Her name is Vaselin. I had her write it down for me because I didn't think I heard her correctly. She did a great job speaking in English in this class, lead the entire class in a song about their goals for the future, and lead another singing group during the presentation. She made a point to come and see me afterwards as well, pushing through the throng of students clamouring for my hand, or trying to touch my hair. (I was a minor celebrity here.)
Below I included a picture of Moses - the owner of Agape Lodge where I am staying. He is a reverend and also the Director of Elephant Thoughts Tanzania. We have many discussions about our two countries and he has done much to make me feel very welcome in his country and his lodge. (Usually he is smiling!)

Day 8 - Visiting Mandela Primary School

Moses walked me to the first of six elementary schools 'Elephant Thoughts' help run in Tanzania. Mandela Primary School has 1730 students with 29 teachers. They, unfortunately do not have enough classrooms (only six) so the students go to school in shifts - unless they are in Level 7 and need to prepare for the final exams, in which case, they go all day.
It was a real eye-opener for me. I visited a number of classes during each of the shifts. Some classes had up to 190 students. The teacher would have that particular class for 40 minutes, but then have 2-3 other classes of similar sizes to complete the day. Teachers teach subjects and they follow a rotary system so the students have many teachers throughout the day. If a teacher is away, other teachers must cover with additional lessons in their subject of expertise and the absent teacher will have to make up the time later. Teachers also take turns with outside supervision - for a week at a time. This school has 425 Level 1 students. The government is insisting each child have a desk. At Mandela, this is not possible yet. The number of students sitting on the floor in one class would be my entire class in Ontario. Students shared books. Much of the learning is through repetition. Distractions from overcrowding, interruptions (from visiting teachers), and even taking attendance (of 190 students!!!!) really limits how much learning happens in a period.
The amazing news behind this story is this particular school has won a number of awards in the past three years. Based on final exam results, they finished in the Top 10 in their District and were named one of the Most Improved Schools in Tanzania (the whole country!), after rising from the very bottom.
While the students were on break, I decided to try to teach a dozen curious students the song "Head and Shoulders, Knees and Toes". Well, when I turned around a crowd had developed and I ended up teaching a few hundred students the song and actions. They were very enthusiastic and keen learners! Below are some photos from my day:

Afterwards their Head Teacher(principal) said the children would certainly be running home to share their stories with their parents and they are eager for me to return. She then arranged for one of the teachers to drive me back to my lodge on his motorcycle. Wow! It's been a loooooong time since I've been on a bike - and in a skirt, no less. He drove very cautiously, but I told him I was fine, so we could speed up a bit. Motorcycle is a wise method of transportation considering the lack of proper roads.
Tomorrow I visit another school but we plan to be there by 7:30 am so I can see their daily morning routines. I absolutely admire these teachers and told the students in each class I visited to appreciate them as well.

When I returned to the Lodge I was telling EliDaima, Moses' wife and also a kindergarten teacher, about the song. I ended up teaching her too. I will have to visit her school as well to teach the students there. 

 

Day Seven - Visiting a Boarding School for Children with Albinism

Today Delphine took me to Misungwi, Mwanza where we had to get special permission from a council member - and bring along a representative - to visit a boarding school the Tanzanian government opened primarily for children in the area born with albinism. The school also houses children with visual impairment, hearing impairment, and mental deficiencies. All of these children are basically rejected from society, but here the teachers provide them with an education and safety. Local children also attend this school so the special needs students may be integrated with society. I have included some photos from a few of the classes I visited. The one with only 4 students is a class of visually impaired students and I was able to see how they wrote in Braille.

The head Special Education teacher provided me with a list of resources the school could use to face their many challenges. As I walked around my hands were quickly held by a little boy no older than 3 and a girl of about 6. I was told a baby - 1 1/2 years old - had just been left under their care, for her own safety. Although they are kept safe, they are without their families. Visiting this school was an eye-opener and made me truly realize how lucky I am as an educator in Ontario.
I was interested in the plight of children with albinism before I even came to Tanzania. It is a heartbreaking story that is so unbelievable to even exist in today's society, let alone in the very area where I am staying. If you're interested, check out a fellow Canadian's efforts to help these children through his organization "Under the Same Sun".
Below is a picture of me meeting with the chairman of the local Albino Society in Mwanza and his wife, to discuss the many challenges they face to assist the over 16,000 albino people of Tanzania whose lives are threatened on a daily basis.

Day Six - A Day of Rest

Delphine came, as scheduled, but I unfortunately did not feel I should take the chance of travelling with my stomach still being upset. She visited for a while and promised to contact me later to see how I was feeling. Moses had to go away for the day to attend a funeral. I was left to relax, read, and recuperate. I also took advantage of the time to try to photo some butterflies and birds in the garden.

 

I decided to try the Maasai medicine again - but just the powder to snort. I used less this time and, although it burned a bit, it almost immediately had me sneezing. This loosened up the mucus and I then was able to blow my nose continuously to remove quite a bit of gunk from within. My stomach seemed to settle down - but I will refrain from drinking the 'tea' to be safe. 

Hot water update: Apparently the hot water does NOT work in my room but Nuru has kindly offered to bring me a bucket of hot water each morning that I can then mix with my bucket of cool water so I may rinse with warm water. It works. I am learning to get better at squeegeeing my floor each day, although yesterday the water ran into my room a bit. Oops! The lodge also ran out of water in the afternoon but Nuru was able to go to the reserve barrels (as seen above a building in a previous photo.)